The Snow Lake Trek

A superb traverse of the Biafo and Hispar Glaciers in the Karakoram Mountains

The Biafo and Hispar Glaciers form the longest glacial system in the world outside the Polar Regions. Together they create a vast natural highway stretching for over 80 miles and linking Baltistan with the villages of the Hunza Valley. At the heart of this system lies the Great Snow Lake, an immense basin of snow and ice from which these two huge glaciers radiate.

The route commences just beyond the village of Askole, a key staging post for treks and expeditions going to K2 and Concordia. Until we reach the village of Hispar on the final day of the trek, this will be the last habitation we see. For a week or so we follow the Biafo, trekking on the glacier itself and in the pleasant ablation valleys which nestle in its lateral moraines. We pass many famous peaks including the Latoks and Baintha Brakk (7285m), better known as The Ogre, a name given to it by Conway on account of its menacing appearance. After a week of fantastic trekking we finally reach the vast white expanse of Snow Lake. It would be difficult to imagine a more sensational location than the Hispar La, and a camp on the highest point of the pass is mandatory requirement of any trek in this region. As we reach the crest of the pass a phenomenal panorama opens up before us. To the east lies the vast white expanse of the Sim Gang basin. To the west the Golden Peaks of Hunza and the Hindu Kush, stretching away in the distance towards Tirich Mir (7780m). As we descend the Hispar Glacier even greater peaks come into view. Kunyang Chhish (7852), Kanjut Sar (7760m) and Disteghil Sar (7884m) provide the awesome backdrop as we complete our traverse to Gilgit and the spectacular mountain flight back up to Rawalpindi.

Factfile

Price Guideline
£1720 pp

The price does not include flights to Islamabad.

Grade
Tough

Duration
22 days

 

Suggested Itinerary


DAY 1      Depart UK
We depart from the UK for the flight to Islamabad the capital city of Pakistan.

DAY 2      Arrive Islamabad
We arrive in Islamabad in the early hours of the morning. Islamabad is a modern sprawling metropolis which merges imperceptibly into its more ancient twin city of Rawalpindi. The Grand Trunk Road runs through ‘Pindi, as it is universally known, and Rudyard Kipling was stationed here briefly in 1885 on his first posting to British India as it then was. We stay at the comfortable Shalimar Hotel in the Cantonment area of the city. The nearby Rajah Bazaar makes for a fascinating and eye-opening sightseeing trip. If you have lunch in one of the many eating houses in the main chowk you may well end up chatting to someone who has family in Manchester, Bradford or Sheffield. After lunch the group members and leader will be required to attend a short, informal briefing at the Ministry of Tourism.

DAY 3     Fly to Skardu
A very early start today. We leave our hotel and drive to the airport for the flight to Skardu. These flights which are operated by Boeing 737 aircraft are very dependant on weather conditions and if there are not clear skies in Skardu the flight may be cancelled. It is also possible that the flight may take off but return to Islamabad if visibility at Skardu is not good enough to make a landing approach. Should the flight operate normally we have a spectacular descent as the pilot circles down into the valley amid soaring mountains on all sides. Skardu is a small Balti town with a few guesthouses and basic shops. We stay at the famous K2 motel – the starting point for so many who trek and climb in these great Karakoram mountains.

NB. Should the flight to Skardu not operate the previous day we will need to drive up the Karakoram Highway. This is a long journey of approximately 22 hours driving.

DAY 4     Contingency day
Spare contingency day in Skardu, in case we have to drive the Karakoram Highway.

DAY 5     Drive to Askole
After breakfast we board a collection of jeeps for the tough journey up to the highest village of Askole (3050m). This jeep road up the Shigar Valley passes through villages which have changed little in 500 years. Barley and wheat grows in the fields whilst apricot trees line our route. In many places the road has been roughly hewn out of the mountainsides and is in a constant state of deterioration and repair. There will probably be several very rough sections where we will need to get out of the jeeps and walk, and if erosion has been particularly severe we may have to walk the last couple of miles. But it is an absolutely spectacular drive and undoubtedly one of the highlights of the trip. We pass through Dassu and after about 7 or 8 hours we reach Askole where we will be welcomed in for tea at one of the village houses. We camp in the nearby fields.

DAY 6     Trek to 'Kings Polo Field'
The village of Askole is the last habitation we will see until we reach Hispar Village on day 17. The village is situated in a beautiful valley made fertile by the creation of ingenious irrigation channels cut besides the fields. There is very little rainfall in the Karakorams and the Balti people who live in this region have tamed the landscape to catch the melt waters which come off the glaciers. The landscape is a dramatic contrast of lush green fields with flourishing crops, set against an austere backdrop of arid mountains. Setting off from Askole, we trek through the village fields for around an hour until we leave the irrigated lands behind and trek through a dusty dessert-like landscape. We follow the west bank of the river to reach a large, flat, sandy expanse known locally as the ‘Kings Polo Field’ and this will be our first nights camp on the trek proper. 3-4 hours trekking.

DAY 7     Trek to Namla
At last we are trekking! After an early breakfast we meet our porters and set off following the turbulent waters of the Braldu River. Fairly early on in the day we come to the rocky snout of the Biafo Glacier. Rather than cross the glacier (as if heading for K2) we turn left and follow its west side ablation valley to the grazing pastures of Namla. The path beside the Biafo Glacier is relatively demanding as it clings to the side of the valley. There are some awkward sections as the path weaves its way between the edge of the glacier and the cliff which bounds it. At some stages we have to trek on the rough glacial surface, but eventually we climb a lateral moraine and arrive at our campsite of Namla, a beautiful grassy meadow at an altitude of 3400 metres. 4 hours trekking.

DAY 8     Trek to Mango
From Namla we return to the Biafo Glacier and follow a series of moraine ridges which run along the centre of the glacier. We trek along these for 3 or 4 hours until we reach a point where the glacier becomes contorted, at which point the route finding becomes quite tricky as we work our way off the glacier and up to another pleasant meadow in a green ablation valley. Our campsite, known as Mango (3626m), gives fantastic views down the valley to the Braldu Gorge. 4 hours trekking.

DAY 9     Trek to Baintha
We drop back down to the Biafo Glacier and work our way through a maze of jumbled boulders to reach the central moraines which provide an easier route along the centre of the glacier. We follow these for some time until we reach the white ice section of the glacier which provides much easier walking for a time. We cross over to the east side of the glacier and make camp at Baintha (3940m). This is another grassy campsite with many flowers and birds, and you may be lucky enough to spot Mountain Ibex on the crags above the campsite. 5-6 hours walking. 5-6 hours trekking.

DAY 10     Acclimatisation at Baintha
We take a rest day at Baintha. This is useful for acclimatisation, but also for two other reasons. Firstly this will be the last green grass campsite for several days and its unique and beautiful location is not one to be rushed away from. And secondly, our porters will wish to use this opportunity to bake fresh bread which will last them for the next few days. Beyond Baintha there is no wood for cooking fires and from here onwards, all food has to be prepared using kerosene stoves. There are several different walking options for today, and in particular there is a small peak above the camp which can be climbed to give fantastic views across to the peaks of Ogre and Latok.

DAY 11     Trek to Napina
We return to the glacier, which at this point is an incredible five miles wide. To the right we pass the Latoks and the Ogre; directly ahead of us we look towards the tremendous rocky spires of the West Biafo Wall including the stunning peak of Sosbun Brakk (6,413m). The going is at first relatively easy, but the angle soon begins to increase and we will need to rope up to safe-guard against hidden crevasses. We camp at Napina, a green campsite in a beautiful ablation valley. 3-4 hours trekking.

DAY 12     Trek to Sim Gang Base Camp
Today we move our campsite to the Sim Gang Basecamp. Although not a long day, we need to position ourselves closer to the foot of the Hispar La in preparation for this long and tiring crossing. Nonetheless, the views we get today are absolutely incredible. Most impressive is the cathedral-like peak of Sosbun Brakk rising above us. And in addition all around us is the vast white expanse of Snow Lake. 4 hours trekking.

DAY 13     Trek to the Hispar La
We have an early start for the long ascent to the Hispar La. We will need to travel roped together to negotiate the central section of the Hispar Glacier, after which in normal conditions ropes are not required. There is then a fairly gentle climb to the crest of the pass, but at this altitude it is hard work. As we reach the pass we are rewarded with one of the most incredible campsites with stupendous views straight down the Hispar Glacier to the mountains of the Hunza region. And in the other direction we can gaze across the great expanse of the Sim Gang basin and the mighty peak of the Ogre. 7-8 hours trekking.

DAY 14     Across the Hispar La to Khani Basa
From the Hispar La we rope up for the short descent from the crest of the pass. After about and hour or two the glacier flattens out and soon we leave the snow and can unrope. Below the snowline the glacier is rocky and moraine-strewn once more and we follow this for 2 or 3 hours to reach our campsite (4395m) situated in an ablation valley by the Khani Basa glacier. 4-5 hours trekking.

DAY 15     Trek to Jutenmal
We cross the Khani Basa Glacier and this gives fine views of the peak of Kanjut Sar (7760m). There are some awkward moraines to cross, and several small streams which are best crossed as early in the morning as possible before the glacial waters begin to flow. Our campsite for the evening is at Jutanmal (4200m). 4-5 hours trekking.

DAY 16     Trek to the Pumari Chhish Glacier
After approximately one hour trekking we reach at Yutmaru glacier, a tributary of the Hispar. Crossing this takes a further hour and from the centre of this glacier there are excellent views of Kanjut Sar, Pumari Chhish and Kunjang Chhish. We stop for lunch in an ablation valley just beyond the Jutanmal Glacier. Beyond this the path follows a series of pleasant meadows with streams flowing through them. We camp just before the Pumari Chhish Glacier at an altitude of 4000m. 4-5 hours trekking.

DAY 17     Trek to Bitenmal
The day begins with a short section of awkward moraines to cross, before we reach the confluence of the Hispar and Pumari Chhish Glaciers. We cross the glacier on moraines and follow a steep path on the west side of the glacier, finally reaching our lunch stop at Dachigan. Now walking on easier paths, we descend the valley to our campsite at Bitenmal (3718m) 4-5 hours trekking.

DAY 18     Trek to Hispar Village
We need to leave early this morning as we have a number of streams to cross whose waters swell considerably once the afternoon snow melt has flowed into them. In some cases these streams can be impassable after heavy melt. We cross the Kiang Glacier and have a steep climb to join the path which leads through the pastures of Daltanas and Falolingkish. One large stream must be negotiated just before Falolingkish and finally a small bridge takes us into Hispar Village, the first habitation we will have seen since leaving Hushe 25 days ago. Hispar is situated in the region known as Nagar and is a fairly large village by local standards. The village has extensive land which is heavily cultivated and stretches right down the valley. We have lunch in Hispar and will hopefully meet our jeep transport here. If the road is in poor condition, which is not unusual, we may have to walk a further hour down the valley to ‘Down Hispar’. We then travel by jeep for a further hour to our final campsite, situated in a pretty meadow. This will be our final night with the porters who have accompanied us for so many days and will be a time of celebration, and a chance for us to show them our appreciation.

DAY 19     Drive to Gilgit
We drive in our jeeps along a bumpy road for about 2 hours until we reach the Karakoram Highway (KKH). We then turn south and drive along this great road for a further three hours until we come to the town of Gilgit. On the way, we will be able to stop for views of Rakaposhi.(7788m), a spectacular and historic peak which was first climbed in 1956 by a British expedition which included Tom Patey. Its tremendous glaciers come tumbling down the mountainside, almost down to the road itself. After taking our photographs we continue down the KKH which follows the course of the Hunza River. At Gilgit we check into the comfortable Chinar Inn which has a pleasant and relaxing garden set amongst shady poplar trees. Gilgit is a fascinating and lively town and the bazaar is worth exploring.

DAY 20     Fly from Gilgit to Islamabad
Insh’Allah the weather will be good today. With clear skies we will be able to board a plane and be back at our hotel in Rawalpindi in a couple of hours. If the weather is not so favourable and the flight doesn’t come, then we will have to drive the Karakoram Highway to Rawalpindi. The outcome is in the lap of the Gods, so we will be praying that they’re on our side!

DAY 21     Islamabad
For those who want to escape the heat of the city a very pleasant excursion is up to the former British hill station at Murree. The faded remnants of the town’s colonial past can be seen in its gable-roofed buildings and small Anglican churchyard, whilst the grassy lawns of the imposing Hotel Cecil make a splendid place to enjoy afternoon tea. This excursion is not included in the trip price but if several members of the group wish to make this journey a private vehicle and driver can be hired locally for a very modest sum. Back in Rawalpindi we enjoy a final evening meal usually taken at one of the five-star hotels in Islamabad.

DAY 22     Arrive UK
We depart from Islamabad, arriving back into the UK the same day.

 

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